A DAY AT THE RACES
No excuses. The MR2 I’ve heard - and experienced - is apparently designed for
9000 rpm, so no excuses. (DON'T BLAME ME THOUGH IF SOMETHING GOES POP). But
seriously the engine will rev high, and a well looked after unit should
regularly take 8000 rpm in short bursts. Be careful though as the rev limiter
doesn’t always work effectively during heavy cornering, and lightening up the
inner rear wheel can sometimes over run the rev limiter. A good reason for
fitting a noisier exhaust, as viewing the rev counter is impossible at high
speeds.
The beauty of trackdays is that if you spin off the track - which I do
regularly - you are not going to hit a wall, a pedestrian or an oncoming car.
All the other drivers should be prepared for a spinning car, and are travelling
in the same direction at a similar speed. Also its non competitive so you’ll get
no Touring Car overtaking and banging or nudging.
In my experience anybody thinking of trying a trackday and saying “I’m only
going to do a few laps, and I am not going to hammer it” are only kidding
themselves - this is what I originally said - and I ended up doing 85 laps, and
hitting the rev limiter on numerous occasions.
Remember the name of the game is fun, enjoying your car to its full
potential, experiencing limits you’ll never see on the main road, and hopefully
learning how to drive better.
On the track there is no need to worry about aggressiveness or competition.
The atmosphere is friendly, and more experienced drivers will always give you
advice on racing lines, and how to improve yourself. If anyone has a problem,
everyone usually jumps to help you out and get you out for the next session.
Lets face it, the MR2 was designed for fast driving, so what’s the point of
owning such a masterpiece if your not going to enjoy its full potential once in
a while? If you are not going to drive it as it was intended, you might as well
run an Escort for half the money, and have the practicality of carrying luggage
and passengers.
I am by no means an expert on racing and track days with my MR2, but here are
a few important things that I have experienced and learnt from other sources
that you might consider to enjoy your time on the track, and make sure that your
car survives to live another day.
Some of the following might be a little excessive; but under the pressures
and strains of hard driving these items are essential. You do not need to worry
about ruining your car, as things that will let go are things that were on the
way out anyway, or accelerate wear on things like tyres and brake pads. Use your
common sense, remember - you are in charge. If you see your temperature gauge
rising, then you come into the pits and check it out instead of going for the
kill. It`s usually something simple.
Insurance
Some insurance companies will offer comprehensive track cover, but at a big
price. More reassuring and practical, some breakdown companies will offer a
policy for a slightly higher premium, that will take you home from circuits,
though I can not see why your regular breakdown cover cannot take you home.
Choosing a helmet
One of the biggest problems with racing the MR2 is having to wear a helmet,
which some circuits insist on, in the confines of the cabin. When buying a
helmet take your car with you and try them on in the car. You’ll be surprised
with the differences between models. A British Standard full face helmet should
set you back around £50 from a motor bike shop. The lack of headroom – I am 6`-
means having to adopt a funny driving position. I have to crouch down in the
seat with it set at its lowest position, one arm practically out of the window
like a taxi driver and the helmet pushed down firm with the chin strap quite
tight to keep it as low as possible. I chose a full face helmet so I can use it
for other motor sports. The problem is you sweat buckets. An open face helmet
might be more practical as you will not sweat as much. Though the ones I tried
on were taller, giving less headroom. Editors note - Sunday 13th July 2003 - I
have just returned from my local car boot sale where I bought 2 very clean and
modern helmets for £1 each.
Preparation.
Remove the plastic fairings from the front luggage space to gain access to
fluids - you need to check these regularly to be on the safe side. Also remove
the fairing above the radiator to gain access to the bleed valve. This is just a
precaution, and can speed up any maintenance in the limited time between
sessions. It also means you can see a problem before it actually happens.
Tyres
You do not need expensive tyres. Non-branded quality tyres are more than
adequate; though ideally make sure they have worn in to the cars driving
characteristics. otherwise they can be twitchy.
Inflate the front tyres to 5-7psi above the normal recommended. At normal
pressures you will experience premature tyre wear/scrub. Any higher and the car
will be too twitchy. Do experiment, as every event can be different. If you are
driving to the event, inflate the tyres to these pressures before leaving home
so that you can get accustomed to the difference.
Assuming that the car is regularly serviced and running on a good quality
synthetic oil, and flushed to unblock any oil ways, all you will need to do is
overfill by 1/2 a litre, to avoid the risk of the oil pick up pipe not picking
up the oil in the sump under hard cornering at 8000rpm ouch!!!
Bleed the water system, though the saying leave well alone might be
appropriate as they can leak after bleeding, especially at 8000rpm. Again this
means it is vital to check the levels regularly and carry enough fluids with
you.
Make sure that you have good quality brake pads with enough life left. Mintex
at £20 should be good enough, but you could go through a set in a day on some
circuits. Do not let a set of worn pads cut your day short.
Brake fluid is another issue. The better the quality the longer your brakes
will last before boiling, and the harder you will be able use them repetitively.
I have found that the brakes overheating is the MR2 Achilles heel.
Take a tool box. Again minor maintenance might be needed, and a simple tool
kit could extend your day, or save your car.
Take enough fuel. I average 11mpg - under a hundred track miles on a full
tank - so a spare can is useful. Remember circuits are not always placed in the
most densely populated areas, so you need enough fuel to get to a petrol
station.
Take out the spare wheel, tools, and all bits and bobs that could dangerously
fly around - empty out everything that is not tied down.
Get your driving position right before you go out on the track with your
crash helmet on, as comfort is important.
Make sure your brake lights and indicators work, as these are vital to inform
other drivers of your intentions.
Make sure your mirrors are set for your new driving position with the helmet,
and maybe fit blind spot accessories on your wing mirrors, as some machinery can
come up behind you very quickly on a straight.
Driving.
Enjoy your car. If you follow the advice you should not have any problems.
Build your speed up over a few laps so as to warm up the tyres.
Remember you are there for the whole day, so in the beginning concentrate on
learning the racing line more than pushing the car 100% - anybody can put their
foot down - the fast boys are fast because they follow this line. When you build
up your speed and get the correct line you will notice vast improvements in your
speed, and notice that you will spin a lot less.
Pace your car for the session and day. Standing on your brakes at every
corner will boil the fluid within a few laps, rendering the rest of the session
to a fast cruise whilst they cool down. You’ll soon find a happy medium between
pacing your car and enjoying it to its full potential. Do not hold back too much
though. Build your speed up throughout the day, and give it 100% at least in the
last session. The difference between 85% and 100% is vast.
Remember circuit racing is about smoothness and this is the key to driving
fast. Smoothness is essential for using the weight transfer to utilise the cars
handling to its full potential. Remember it’s the MR2’s forte. Mid engine means
you can place the power down much sooner than other layouts, and by using the
weight transfer of the car, you can out accelerate much more powerful cars out
of corners.
You will spin, and you should be able to control it. If something massive
goes wrong at high speed, and especially if you end up spinning at high speed
uncontrollably over grass - watch your thumbs - the steering has a quick rack
and little weight up front which means the steering wheel will spin violently.
Getting your thumbs trapped between the spokes can be very painful.
If you do spin badly and end up off the track, do not go flat out straight
away, drive a couple of laps at a slower pace just to make sure that the car is
OK, and come in if need be to see if everything s intact, especially your
overflow bottle, tyres and wheels. Usually this is the worst type of incident
that will happen, which should not damage your car. It just feels much worst
inside the car than it actually is. Your helmet will stop your head being banged
against window posts and rear view mirror.
Remember: do not panic if a car comes storming up behind you, just keep your
head. Accidents can happen when drivers loose their cool. If you are on the
racing line going fast into a corner, do not move over to let him pass, as if
you come off the racing line at speed the odds are you will spin, or your line
will coincide with his somewhere in the corner, which will be expensive. Let him
pass after the corner. Though do not start spoiling other peoples track time. If
you can let them through before the braking distance then do. Do not worry
though because if you are holding someone up you will get blue flagged, meaning
let them through.
Chequered Flag
Use your cool down lap for that purpose, and not a way of passing someone you
have been racing against. Cruise it, and free wheel to cool the engine. Do not
use your brakes unecessarily, to cool them down.
When you come into the pits do not put your hand brake on in order to let
them cool down completely. Leave the car in gear instead. Leave your ignition on
so that the cooling fans come on - the heat will surge and the water is not
being cooled through the radiator. Open both hatches and check the car and fluid
levels, and leave open to assist cooling. Pull the engine bay fan sender plug
out so that the fan comes on. It aids cooling, and can help performance. I have
found that the MR2 is not as powerful in the heat as it is on a cold day. Before
you go back on start your engine a few minutes before to allow your pressures
build up and the engine to warm, and again use the first few laps to warm the
tyres, oil etc.
Try Racing Your MR2
The only trouble with track days is that it’s non-competitive. You might
consider joining a local motor club, and try some events. Usually a sprint or a
hill climb is cheaper than a track day. You will not probably experience as much
track time, but the time spent is competitive. There is nothing more adrenaline
enducing than sitting on the start line, waiting for the flag or light.
Don’t feel intimidated, as club events can have a friendlier atmosphere than
track days, as everybody goes out of their way to assist the new comer, whilst
at track days a high percentage are new comers, so can feel a little lost.
For many timed events you will not need a cage etc., as you won’t be on the
track with anyone else. Be careful though what event or venue you compete in, so
as not to damage the car. I.e. many motor clubs are road rally orientated, which
for the MR2 isn’t economical to do, and can be a little low. Though the only
items that you will ground is the central front jacking point or the front
valance.
Check venues for ride height as some can be autocross style sprints around a
field or on gravel. These surfaces should be OK, but ask the organiser first,
and walk the track before trying.
Do not be embarrassed to miss a stage, if you are not confident in not
damaging your car. In mixed events just cruise the rough stuff, or if you must
miss a stage/heat. Remember the majority of cars there will be trailered in, and
have been prepared for such events, so there is no need to be embarrassed. The
name of the game is enjoyment, and nothing gives you more of a kick than turning
up in your road car, dumping your tool kit on the side of the pit lane;
competing then driving home. (remembering to pick up your tools
though!!!!!!!!!).
Conclusion
I am by no means a track day expert and have limited competitive racing
experience, therefore do not take what I have written as gospel, It is my
experiences. What I can say is that the MR2 might not be the cheapest car to run
on the road; but to compete or track day in it is certainly one of the most fun
and reliable. It is certainly more economical than running a road car as well as
a competition car.
Nothing gives you more of a buzz than when you can drive to an event, race,
and be competitive with the hoards of trailered Lotus Elises, Ferrari 355GTS,
Caterham R500 etc. and give them a run for their money – win - and drive home.
By the way for the record, my car is an 1987 coupe that has covered in excess
of 140,000 miles, and is my daily means of transport clocking approximately
15,000 miles a year. And no I am not made of money, I’m not in the motor trade
or a mechanic, and there is no flash double garage with all mod cons. The
majority of repairs are done by myself and a mobile mechanic on the drive, so
everyone out there you’ve got no excuse.
You cannot appreciate what a masterpiece you own until you’ve run your MR2 on
a track, be it competitive or at a track action day.
ROBERT GRAY-WILLIAMS
