REPAIRS PAGE 64
LAY-UP NOTES
Some members have reasons to lay-up their cars for relatively long periods (say a few months)
– during which time they remain static ‘dormant’. The lucky ones are
probably over-wintering their cars away from the effects of salt etc, - or
lesser mortals like me are batting on (slowly) with DIY restoration work.
Either way there are a number of drawbacks with long lay ups – this article suggests how to
mitigate some of these. (It does not however cover a lay up of years and years
– that’s an altogether bigger ball-game.) Clearly the best storage scenario
is a warm dry well ventilated garage – but not all of us have that luxury.
Taking the potential issues (in no particular order)-
a) Tyres
The most obvious risk here is that when static the weight of the car is concentrated on the
‘foot-print’ of each tyre – which over time develops a permanent memory of
this injustice - and retaliates by ‘flat-spotting’ and tyre wall cracking.
The degree of this depends on lay up period factors such as time, tyre load and
tyre pressure. Subsequently driving a car with flat-spotted tyres is not at all
pleasant and does nothing to improve the cars handling - or the drivers
disposition. If the flat-spotting is minor, then the tyres might just eventually
come back to somewhere near what they once were – but never 100%. If major – they are simply U/S.
So, that’s the problem – more to the point where’s the answer? Well – the best one
technically is (as often) not that palatable – take the weight off them. One
possible way is to jack the car up all round – but I don’t like that because
it stresses the jacking points for too long, and sets the suspension into its
full rebound position – which it will remember later on – the shockers tend
to stick. The better way is to take any beloved wheel sets off and replace them
with a set of old battered ones for the period. Clear downside here – the
storage space required for the good set of wheels. Upside – best technical
option, and old wheel sets are relatively cheap. Another is to occasionally move
the car during the lay-up period so as to move the tyre to a new contact patch
– but in doing that strictly speaking the lay-up period has ended. Also it is
no use just rolling the car backwards or whatever and then back to where it was
– as the contact patch will be the same as before!
The compromise way – which I use - is to over-inflate the tyres to minimise the footprint
area. I take them up to 50-55 psi - but before anyone else does this – check
the tyre rating moulded into the wall - and specifically check that the whole of
the tyre is in good condition. Any blow-out at these pressures will do
significant damage to anything – or anybody - near it. You have been warned!
Personally I try to reduce this risk by taking the pressure up in stages - ca 8 psi each time.
Additionally, I don’t use a foot pump – too close for safety – but an air
compressor that I can control at a safe distance. Even more importantly – no
one else is allowed anywhere near the car in that condition, and it is in a
contained area.
b) Brakes
These have a distinct tendency to seize on – especially if laid-up outside in damp
conditions. Unfortunately I don’t know of any simple elegant solution here –
removing the pads and physically cycling the pistons every week would work –
but what a chore!
It certainly helps if the calipers/cables etc are in a good and free condition at the start
of lay-up – if however they are on their last legs – then sods law says they
will seize. Also keep the handbrake off – why seize it on by doing this - and
stretch the cable into the bargain? There is probably something more subtle to
do here – could any clued up members please advise!
c) Engine
It’s difficult to recommend long term storage in an outside UK location – winter humidity
will start to corrode internal metal surfaces once the engine has drained back
down to the sump. In winter I would run a loved car (on the road) at least twice
per week to help retain an oil-film. Castrol Magnatec is probably the best for
oil for this duty – it is semi-synthetic with polarised additives to hang on
to metal as long as possible - and retain that vital start-up lubricant film. If
this sounds far-fetched – just think of detergents – in reverse – the oil
is ionic instead of detergent anionic – and don’t argue unless you want to
be the new Technical Advisor! Engine-Wise do excellent dessicant packs – well recommended.
d) Clutch
This will try hard to seize on - and does – especially if storage is outside. Apart from
regular (say twice weekly usage) – this is a fact of life. The symptoms are
quite simple – with the engine running the clutch just doesn’t work and
gears can only be ‘engaged’ when the engine is stopped. Result – a car
where the engine runs but it just won’t move – not nice.
The solution is ‘out there’ – but only for the brave – and I never said I was! It is
brutal – but is the only alternative to a clutch strip-down and rebuild -
which frankly is the best solution – but this slightly dramatic DIY method is
worth a try – not much to lose!
Right – now you’ve decided to be brave (you and not me – I only advise without any
warranty!) The process then – Don’t have the car anywhere near a good MK1 or
a loved one (shame to waste a good car or a loved one - in that universal
pecking order) – it is dramatic and distinctly traumatic for both the car and
any innocent object in the near vicinity. Block the car – with BIG wedges –
fore and aft. This is crucial – especially for loved persons – they will
need to be in good enough physical and mental state for them to take you to
Hospital shortly after what you are just about to do. Do not do this next step
without more thought!
Handbrake on – of course. Warm up engine. Depress clutch pedal and engage 2nd gear. Heel and
toe the brake/throttle so that the brakes are well on and the throttle is
wellied. Pray briefly and release the clutch pedal. There will be no need to
wait for the ‘big bang’ – it will have just happened! The car will have
just attempted to hurl itself at the nearest object in front of it – but
assuming that those BIG wedges have held (which is why they must be big!) –
the clutch will have exceeded its torque capacity freed off – or broken.
The other possibility is that the flywheel retaining bolts will have sheared – well the
car wasn’t going to work anyway! No pain – no gain as someone anonymous once
said! A slightly less dramatic alternative – as long as the car isn’t
trapped in a garage - and not near anything vulnerable – is to do the same
thing - with the brakes off and no wedges. The car will lurch – hence the need
for a ‘safety zone’ – but the result will be approximately the same as
above – good luck!
e) Body
It obviously makes sense before any storage period to get the bodywork as clean as reasonably
possible. A good wax polish will clearly help the paintwork – but don’t
forget that hidden underneath – jet wash any mud/salt off - especially the rear arch lips.
Oh - and don’t forget to follow this up by spraying the lips – not just from below – but
internally from above.
Relatively easily done - take out the boot liner cards – then spray into the area with
either WD-40 (preferred), Waxoyl clear, or Dinitrol (Halfords.) Do however put
old newspaper/card underneath the arches first and over the wheel/brake hub –
the idea is that it bleeds through – if you have a good drive surface it could
make a real a mess and annoy any ‘better half’ – simply not worth the
redemption pain and cost in chocolates/flowers!
f) Exhaust
A mild steel exhaust is at most risk of corroding from the inside during storage – as
obviously the acidic combustion products are the problem here. It pays to get
the engine and exhaust as hot as possible immediately prior to storage – ie as
much above the acid dewpoint (150 deg C) as possible. High load at low speed is
best for this – but done sensibly. Stainless exhausts are more resistant (but
not totally!) – do as above but can be done in more moderation.
g) Battery
This is an item that is absolutely guaranteed to deteriorate without regular load cycling.
Permanent charging with an ‘average’ charger is not an option – the energy
will eventually drive the water out of the electrolyte – leaving neat
sulphuric acid that will sulphate up the lead plates – end of battery. I have
tried regular ‘top-up’ charging – but it doesn’t really work – even a
good battery will be relegated to a poor back-up unit.
So – what’s better – here we go again — The best solution by far is to take the battery
out and use it in another car reasonably frequently. The start-up drain and
subsequent recharges ‘deep-cycle’ the battery – the best thing that it can
have. The next best solution is to use a high-tech charger which can
‘condition’ the battery. This means progressively charging the battery with
both current and voltage sensing (chip controlled of course!) 2 good chagers are
Airflow and Accumate.
There are probably more good areas to cover on this subject – but I’ve run out of
time (dictatorial editor!) - and inspiration! I’ll try and think of more for
the next issue – but as always – if anyone has got a good topic – let me know!
ALAN JONES